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Oaxaca for beginners: Mole, mezcal and the route to eat up the world

¿Te atreves a comer chapulines? Te llevamos a Oaxaca, la ciudad donde se come mejor en todo el mundo. Guía para tu primer viaje

PHOTO: IA Illustration / QuéOnnda

If you think you know Mexican food but have never been to Oaxaca, we need to talk. Forget the beach resorts for a moment; the real heart of Mexico beats here, among mountains, baroque churches and comal smoke.

Oaxaca de Juárez is not just a destination, it’s an obsession. It is the place where time stands still and flavors explode. Is it your first time? Don’t worry, here we give you the Oaxaca initiation manual for beginners to enjoy it like an expert.

Rule #1: You come here to eat (a lot)


Oaxaca is the gastronomic capital of the country. There is no such thing as a diet here.

The smoky aisle: Enter the Mercado 20 de Noviembre. The smell of grilled meat will guide you to the famous aisle where you choose your tasajo (dried meat), cecina enchilada and chorizo. It is grilled on the spot and served with handmade tortillas, guacamole and chiles de agua. It is a carnivore’s paradise.

Tlayudas: Don’t call them “Mexican pizzas”. They are giant, crispy tortillas covered with beans, quesillo (the real Oaxaca cheese), cabbage and tasajo. The quintessential street dinner.

Chapulines: Lose your fear! They taste like lime, salt and chili, and are crunchy like chips. Try them in a taco with guacamole and you won’t be able to stop.

Los 7 Moles: The black mole is the king, but look for the yellow or the coloradito. They are complex sauces with dozens of ingredients that tell the story of Mexico.

Rule #2: “For all ills, mezcal…”.


“…and for all good things, too”. In Oaxaca, mezcal is not a fad, it is religion.

Experience: Don’t take it as a “shot”.

Mezcal is “besa” (taken in small sips).

Visit a mezcaleria downtown (such as In Situ or La Mezcalerita) and ask for a tasting of wild agaves (Tobalá or Tepeztate).

Accompany it with orange slices and worm salt.

Rule #3: Walk and look up.


The Historic Center is a World Heritage Site.

Templo de Santo Domingo: Its interior is covered with gold from floor to ceiling. It is dazzling. The esplanade outside, filled with blue agaves, is the perfect place for a sunset photo.

Colors and art: Walk along the tourist walkway Macedonio Alcalá. The colorful facades, the art galleries and the papel picado decorating the streets will make you feel like you are in the movie “Coco”.

Mandatory Getaway: Boil the Water

An hour and a half from the city, you have to see this.

What is it? Petrified waterfalls (made of white stone) that seem frozen in time, with natural pools of turquoise water at the top of the mountain.

The view of the valley is unreal.

Tip 2026: Arrive very early (8:00 AM) to avoid the crowds and swim to your heart’s content.

Traveler’s Tips

Best time: If you want to party, go in July for the Guelaguetza (the largest folkloric festival in the Americas) or at the end of October for the Day of the Dead ( where the city is filled with cempasúchil and comparsas).

If you want peace and good prices, go in January or February.

Reservations: Oaxaca is all the rage. If you want to dine at top restaurants like Criollo or Casa Oaxaca, book a month in advance.

Oaxaca welcomes you with open arms and a full plate, ¡Buen provecho!

Filed under: Oaxaca for beginners

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